Yaalpaanam (Jaffna)
Overview
'Yaalpaanam" (or Jaffna city) is the capital of the Northern Province and the cultural capital of the Thamil (Tamil) Speaking People on the island. Located on a large peninsula that derives its name from the ancient Tamil instrument known as ‘Yaal’, an instrument like the Welsh/Irish Harp. The word “Paanam” derives from the word “Paanan”, a musician who plays a musical instrument and sings.
The name “Jaffna” is a Portuguese replacement of the native Tamil name “Yaalpaanam” and has no meaning to it in any language whatsoever.
Yaalpaanam City is incidentally twinned with the Royal Borough of Kingston upon Thames in Southwest London as there is a sizeable Tamil population from the Yaalpaanam Peninsula who have lived in this borough for the past four decades or more.
Due to the long civil war, tourism has not developed here yet, but the larger hotel groups in the south are now opening branches in the peninsula. In the meantime, it remains one of the off-the-beaten-track spots on the island. There are some excellent beaches like Casuarina, a white sandy beach, and Kankesanthurai Beach.
There are small islands off the west coast of the peninsula, some of which are accessible by causeways and boats, and they are worth a visit too to get an idea of how these small islanders live.
Twelve miles north of the city is Naguleswaram one of the five ancient Eeswaram temples dedicated to Lord Sivan on the island and is situated at Keeri Malai about 17 miles west of the northernmost point of the island. Keeri Malai Springs is reputed for its curative properties and one could take a swim in the shallow pool.
The style of cuisine here is very different from that in the south of the island. When in the peninsula, a must-try dish is the island’s famous Crab Curry (Nandu Curry in Tamil), and the famous Seafood Stew (Pannam Kool) made with Palmerah flour. The Tamil cuisine tends to be about two to three notches spicier than the Singhala cuisine in the south!
Incidentally “Curry” is a Thamil word, and the term is only used for non-vegetarian dishes. The British took the word from Tamil Nadu state in South India and popularised it not only in Britain but internationally.
Yaalpaanam (Jaffna) Public Library is an iconic symbol of northern heritage first built in 1933 and has long been a symbol of northern heritage. The library endured a horrific and state-sponsored burning in 1981 – a time at which it held nearly 100,000 books and manuscripts, making it one of the largest libraries in Asia and it was reduced to ashes. Ancient manuscripts, literature, and documents from renowned scholars and other professionals were preserved at the Jaffna Library and served as a cherished depository on the history and culture of Tamils not only on the island but also from Tamil Nadu (Thamil Naadu) in South India when it was torched.
Today, the restored building is filled with a collection nowhere near its original, the library still commands the timeless dignity it upholds for the people of Jaffna and beyond.
