TAMIL NADU
Overview
Tamil Nadu State is in the extreme south of the subcontinent. It is bounded by the Indian Ocean (Bay of Bengal) and long sandy beaches to the east and south and Kerala State and the lush mountains of the Western Ghats to the west. To the northwest is the Karnataka State and to the north is Andhra Pradesh State.
Tamil Nadu is supremely rich in culture and heritage and known to be one of the oldest civilisations in the world, the people of Tamil Nadu belong to the prestigious Dravidian (Thiravida) roots going back to the Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa (Indus Valley) civilisation some 4,000 years BCE.
Along with Tamil Nadu today’s Kerala, Sri Lanka, major parts of Karnataka, and Andhra were collectively known as “Thamilagam” (Traditional Homeland of Thamil Speaking People) from 600 BCE to 300 CE and the people were known as Thiravidar (Dravidian) and their cultural and religious belief system is based around Lord Siva (Sivites). Tamilagam was ruled by the three Tamil dynasties of Pandya, Chola, and Chera Kings.
Thamil Language which originated in the Indus Valley is the oldest surviving spoken and written language in the world as acknowledged by The Language Center at Harvard University. The Tamil language is the official language and Chennai is the capital of Tamil Nadu.
A land of ancient Kovils (temples) built in Dravidian architectural style, Dravidian art, music, and dance its beaches, hills, wildlife reserves, and South Indian cuisine (Idly, Thosai, Vadai, and Thali) are something not to be missed.
Places to visit in Tamil Nadu
RAMESWARAM
The sacred pilgrimage town where Hindu devotees visit throughout the year is Rameswaram an ancient Temple dedicated to Lord Siva. The temple and the town are considered holy pilgrimage sites for Saivites, the worshipers of Lord Siva. Located on Pamban Island connected by rail and road bridges about a mile and a half long to the mainland.
Thevaram, the 7th–8th century Thamil compositions on Lord Siva and Rameswaram by three prominent Nayanars (Saivite Saints) indicates the prominence and importance of this temple millenniums ago.
The contribution of the Tamil kings of the Pandya Dynasty on the island of Sri Lanka (formerly Illangai/Lanka/Ceylon) to the temple was considerable. They also shipped granite stone blocks and thousands of pillars from Thiru Konamalai (Trincomalee) seaport situated in the northeast of the island to renovate the temple's sanctum and corridors between 1380-1410 CE.
There are about 1212 pillars in the outer rectangular corridor with a height of about 22 feet most pillars are carved with individual compositions. The rectangular outer set of corridors is reputed to be the longest in the world, measuring about 400 feet each in the east and west and about 640 feet in the north and the south, a total of 2,080 feet.
‘Eswaran’ is another name for Lord Siva and temple names ending with ‘Eswaram’ are an abode of Lord Siva. There is Thiruketheeswaram old as Rameswaram in a town called ‘Thali Mannar’ on the island of Sri Lanka just under 22 miles across the sea from Rameswaram. There are five Eeswaram Temples dotted around the island, in the north, northwest, west, south, and northeast all of which were built at or around the same time.
KANYAKUMARI
Kanyakumari is the southernmost tip of the Indian subcontinent, it is just 48 miles from Kovalam Beach, one of the best beaches in Kerala State. Kanyakumari is not just another town, it has ancient history and heritage.
Kanyakumari district got its official name from the renowned 3000 or so year-old “Kumari Amman” temple located at the southernmost point of the mainland devoted to the virgin goddess an aspect of Parvathy, who was later to become the wife of Lord Siva. This temple is a sacred pilgrimage site where Hindu (Saivite) devotees come. At the entrance to the temple the only point where three seas namely the Indian Ocean, The Bay of Bengal, and the Arabian Sea meet. Here there is a bathing area in the sea and a clutch of sand will reveal that there are three shades of sand from three different seas.
There are two rocks just over a mile distance from the shores and worth visiting. On one of the rocks stands a 1330 ft tall statue of “Thiru Valluvan” commonly known as Valluvan(r), a celebrated Thamil poet and philosopher who lived around the first century BC. He is best known as the author of the “Thirukkuṟaḷ”, a collection of 1330 couplets under three main headings namely Virtue, Wealth, and Love covering all aspects of the art of living.
Many glorious praises have been said about his work of art including by Leo Tolstoy, a Russian writer (1828 – 1910) who is regarded as one of the greatest authors of all time. Who had said that the concept of non-violence was taken from a German version of “Thiru Kural” and Mahatma Gandhi is said to have learned about non-violence from Leo Tolstoy.
The English translation of “Thirukural” by M. Rajaram and published (2009) by Rupa Publications India Pvt. Ltd, India is highly recommended.
The second rock is dedicated to Swamy Vivekananda (1863 – 1902), a memorial hall was built here for this Hindu monk, philosopher, author, and religious teacher. He was a key figure in the introduction of Vedanta (a Hindu philosophy) and Yoga to the Western world and is credited with raising interfaith awareness and bringing Hinduism to the status of a major world religion. Born in Bengal when residing in Kanyakumari he would swim to this rock daily to meditate.
MAHABALIPURAM
Mahabalipuram was a thriving port city during the “Pallava” Dynasty (a Thamil Dynasty) rule here from the 7th to the 8th century C.E. in South India. It is situated about 40 miles south of Chennai the capital of Tamil (Thamil) Naadu.
Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram founded by the Pallava kings, was carved out of rock along the Coromandel coast in the 6th to 9th centuries. It is known especially for its ‘thers’ (temples in the form of chariots), mandapams (cave sanctuaries), rock-cut cave temples, monolithic temples, bas-relief sculptures, and structural temples as well as the excavated remains of temples. There are giant open-air reliefs such as the famous 'Descent of the Ganges', and thousands of sculptures to the glory of Lord Siva.
The temples and structures are in Dravidian (Thiravida) architectural style, this is a UNESCO Heritage Site.
KANCHIPURAM
Kanchipuram is one of the most ancient cities in southern India and traces its history to the ‘Early’ (600 BCE – 300CE) Chola Dynasty capital. It is situated about 50 miles southwest of Chennai and is home to many ancient temples, throughout its history to its present day Kanchipuram remained an important holy pilgrimage site by Saivites (Hindus).
The Pallava Dynasty north of Kanchipuram took control of Kanchipuram and made it their capital from the 3rd to the 9th century CE. The ‘Medieval’ or ‘Imperial’ Cholas, part of the Chola Dynasty returned and defeated the Pallavas in the 9th century CE and retook Kanchipuram which served as the Chola government headquarters.
There are several temples to visit at Kanchipuram, all of them built in Dravidian (Thiravida) architectural style and most dedicated to Lord Siva. Kailasanathar Temple, Kamakshi Amman Temple, Varadharaja Perumal Temple, Ekambareswarar Temple, Thiru Parameswara Vinnagaram, and Kumarakottam Temple to name a few.
Kanchipuram is a sacred Hindu pilgrimage site in India and is a destination that is religious, historical, and cultural (classical/heritage music and dance) all in one. Kanchipuram was a learning centre going back to the 2nd century BCE and an intellectual hub for Thamil scholars.
The silk sari made in the Kanchipuram region known as the “Kanchipuram Sari” is extremely popular, these saris are worn as bridal as well as special occasion saris by most women in Thamil Naadu, Kerala, Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh States and in fact amongst saree wearers all over the world. It has been recognised by the government of India as a “Geographical Indication” meaning that only the saris produced in the region could be called “Kanchipuram Saris”. It is estimated that there are currently about 5,500 families who have inherited the skills over centuries in the production of these saris.
MADURAI
It is said that “Chennai may be the capital of Thamil Naadu State, but Madurai claims its soul”.
Madurai is a major city and is the cultural capital of Thamil Naadu State. Madurai goes back to the “Thamil Sangam Periods” under the patronage of the Pandya Kingdom whose court of arms carried fish as its symbol and the capital was Madurai.
“Thamil Sangam Periods” means a gathering of Thamil scholars and poets that according to traditional Thamil accounts occurred over three different periods, the first being between 9600 BCE to 5200 BCE a period of 4,400 years, the second with a period of 3,700 years and the third with a period of 1,850 years.
It is worth noting that “Tholkapiyam and “Puranaanur” are the two oldest surviving Thamil literature works written well over 1500 BCE.
The skyline of Mathurai is dominated by the 14 colourful ‘gopurams’ (gateway towers) of Meenakshi Amman Kovil (Temple) the tallest of which is the southern tower, which rises to over 170 ft and was rebuilt in the late 16th century. The gopurams are covered in bright carvings of Hindu gods, and this Dravidian (Thiravida) style temple is a major pilgrimage site. Millions attend the processions and ceremonies of April's “Chithirai Festival” celebrating goddess Meenakschi.
Madurai is also called “Thoonga Nagaram” (a sleepless city) because the marketplace in Madurai is always bustling with life. The day market is called ‘Naalankadi’ and the evening market is called ‘Allankadi.
THANJAVUR
David Keys an English archaeologist and an archaeology correspondent for the London-based daily paper wrote two decades ago about the ‘Chola Kingdom’ in Southern India; “In its heyday, it was one of the half-dozen greatest powers on Earth. It controlled half a million square miles - more than five times the size of Britain and under its wings literacy and the arts flourished”.
He goes on to say “Yet today, 1,000 years later, the Chola Empire is remembered only by a handful of specialist historians. But despite 460 years of glory, the Chola Empire disappeared from history; a sad fate for a civilisation which was among the most remarkable produced by the medieval world”.
Under the auspicious of the Chola rulers over centuries the Dravidian (Thiravida) culture flourished “Paratha Natyam” (Dance), “Isai” (classical music), “Nadagam” (Drama), and Thamil literature art forms.
Thanjavur was the capital city of the Mediaeval Chola Empire for a long period and is a divine land with lots of incredible temples. Though the city is small it has lots of confounding places to visit.
The renowned “Periya Kovil” (Tanjore big temple) as it was known when King Raja Raja Cholan I built and inaugurated it in 1010 AD is located here. This is now a UNESCO-listed heritage site.
Thanjavur Sarasvati Mahal Library established in the year 1535 is one of the oldest libraries in Asia and is situated within the campus of the Thanjavur Palace. Old manuscripts, books, maps, and paintings of all aspects of art, culture, and literature can be found here.
Tanjavur has always been the breadbasket of South India a promising agricultural land for cultivating rice, millet, and corn. Tanjore is also famous for paintings and Veena (musical instrument) making.
The Dravidian irrigation engineering can be proud of some of the oldest examples of irrigation works on the whole sub-continent of India. The Kallanai Dam/Grand Anicut built in the second century AD across the Kavery River in Thanjavur is the fourth oldest dam in the world and it is still operational.
The same irrigation systems were implemented in Sri Lanka by the Chola Kingdom when it was part of “Thamilagam” (comprised of today’s Thamil Naadu, Kerala, Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh States and Sri Lanka).
CHENNAI
Chennai is the capital city of Thamil Naadu State and the 4th largest city in India after Delhi, Mumbai, and Kolkata. To give a brief history Chennai has been an important administrative, military, and economic centre since the 1st century CE. Throughout its long history, many South Indian kingdoms, such as the Pandya Dynasty, the Chola Dynasty, the Pallava Dynasty, and the Vijayanagara Empire, have ruled over the area.
In 1522, the Portuguese the first European coloniser arrived in the area and built Santhome Basilica. Then, in 1612 the Dutch arrived and overthrew the Portuguese and settled near Pulicat Village just north of Chennapatnam, (patnam means town in Thamil) is the original name that later became Chennai as we know it now. Then in 1639, the East India Company leased a strip of land in a small fishing village in Chennaipatnam. A year later the East India Company built Fort St. George, which was the first major British settlement in India and called the area Madras.
Madras is not a Thamil word, it is derived from the Arabic word ‘Madrasa’ meaning school, Islamic influences brought in by the invading Moghuls in the north from Central Asia existed in Chennai before the time of East India Company’s arrival.
The British then brought today’s Thamil Naadu, Kerala, Karnataka, and Andhra States under one administration and called it the ‘Madras Presidency’ which was established in 1652. They also briefly brought the coastal areas of Sri Lanka (then Ceylon) just 22 miles across the sea under the Madras Presidency between 1793 – 1798.
Chennai is the political and cultural hub of Thamil Naadu and the epitome of the Thiravida (Dravidian) movement, whose people’s culture and Thamil language go back to Mohenjadaro and Harappa, the Indus Valley Civilisation about 7,000 BCE. Today Chennai City’s population is over 6.5 million and the metropolis has a population approaching 12 million.
Things to see and places to visit in Chennai
MARINA BEACH
is along the Bay of Bengal and is a golden sandy urban beach. With a length of 8 miles and a width of about 1,500 ft, it is the longest urban beach on the subcontinent of India and the second longest urban beach in the world. An excellent place for an evening walk.
Government Museum - The second oldest museum in India. India’s history, art, culture, tradition, and a large collection of Roman antiques are preserved here. This museum is open to the public seven days a week.
VALLUVAR KOTTAM TEMPLE
This imposing monument is erected to hail the saint, poet, and philosopher of the great Thiruvalluvar. This temple has a collection of his work considered an exceptional and widely cherished work of Thamil literature.
“Thiru Valluvan” commonly known as Valluvan(r), is a celebrated Thamil poet, philosopher, and saint who lived around the first century BC. He is best known as the author of the “Thirukkuṟaḷ”, a collection of 1330 couplets under three main headings namely Virtue, Wealth, and Love covering all aspects of the art of living.
Many glorious praises have been said about his work of art including by Leo Tolstoy, a Russian writer (1828 – 1910) who is regarded as one of the greatest authors of all time. Who had said that the concept of non-violence was taken by him from a German version of “Thiru Kural” and Mahatma Gandhi is said to have learned about non-violence from Leo Tolstoy. The English translation of “Thirukural” by M. Rajaram and published (2009) by Rupa Publications India Pvt. Ltd, India is highly recommended.
The architectural beauty of the ‘Kottam’ needs to be admired and is an ideal place for morning and evening strolls.
FORT St. GEORGE
Founded in 1639, it was the first British fortress in India. The construction of the fort provided the impetus for further settlements and trading activity, in what was originally an uninhabited land. The fort currently houses the Tamil Nadu Legislative Assembly and other official buildings.
THE CHOLAMANDALA ARTIST’S VILLAGE
This is an idyllic place located on 10 acres of land, about seven miles from Chennai - along the New Mahabalipuram road. Being India’s largest self-supporting artists’ village and one of the most successful in Asia, this beautiful village is where truly some great works of contemporary art are produced. It has earned a good reputation amongst art lovers.
THE NATIONAL GALLERY
Chennai has one of the oldest art galleries in India. This Gallery was built in 1906 and houses paintings and sculptures from Thanjavur, Rajasthan, Kangra, and Deccan areas (the entire southern peninsula of India south). The Chola Bronze section in the gallery is popular among visitors.
THE GUINDY NATIONAL PARK
The garden encompasses an area of 20 acres. It has more than 500 species of plants in addition to the 80 pre-existing trees of which some are more than 100 years old. The garden has 22 exclusive areas including Palm Court, Tree Court, Golden Garden, Rock Garden, Butterfly Garden, Fern Garden, and Theme Garden. It also houses 25 thematic gardens including herbals, aromatics, mazes, and cascades.
There are 14 types of mammals, and 37 varieties of birds can be found here.
ULAGA MANDALAM (OOTY)
Ulaga Mandalam is a scenic hill station in the Western Ghat mountain range in Thamil Nadu. It is situated at an elevation of about 7,500 feet above sea level surrounded by the picturesque Nilgiri Hills.
The British Raj chose this place which was then a “Toda” tribe village known as “Ottakkalmandu” (Single stone hill in Thamil). The tribal people still live in the area. The name then changed to “Ooty” (a shortened version of “Ottakkalmandu”) and became the Summer Capital of the British Madras (South India) Presidency. The British Raj would come to Ooty to escape the scorching heat of Chennai (Madras), a very similar routine to the British Raj in Kolkata and Delhi moving its Summer Capital to Shimla in the foothills of the Himalayas.
When you are visiting Ulaga Mandalam (Ooty) the highlight would be to get there by the “Ooty Toy Train” and treasure the Nilgiri Mountain Railway experience. This mountain Railway was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, built by the British Raj for pure pleasure a ride of 29 miles at an average speed of six miles per hour over 250 bridges, 208 curves, and 16 tunnels is a pure joy. The climb up takes just under 5 hours from Mettupalayam Station, and the climb down takes just over 3 1/2 hours.
There are numerous lakes and beauty spots to visit in Ulaga Mandalam. Emerald Lake, Bellikkal Lake, Ooty Lake, Avalanche Lake, Pykara Lake, Kamaraj Sagar, and Upper Bhavani Lake are a few to mention, ideal places for relaxing and trekking.
SOUTH INDIAN CUISINE
A description goes that “South Indian food is not just a cuisine, it's an emotion”. South India is the cradle of “Vegetarianism”. One must try the Thosais, Idlis, Vadais, and Thalis to mention some popular food. South India gave “Karies (Curries) to the British Raj and the British Raj took it to the world, certainly a permanent feature on the British menu. It is worth noting that the word “Karie” is a Thamil word mainly used for gravy-based non-veg dishes in South India.
